Siena - Week 2

Ciao!
Last week we moved from the farmhouse to inside the walls of Siena. We are just around the corner from the Gothic Duomo. Our bedrooms looks out over the 13th century San Dominico (where St. Catherine's head and fingers are......... a little creepy but ironic. Georgia Catherine is named after my grandma (Catherine) who was named after St. Catherine. Plus, Catherine is my baptismal name). It snowed our first night here........beautiful. As I was sticking my head out the kitchen window looking down on Vallepiatta, our very small and quiet cobble stone street, a woman from an apartment across the way opened her window, then her green wooden shutters, stuck her head out and started yelling, "Neve bella, neve bella!!" (translation.........beautiful snow, beautiful snow). Later that night as we walked the streets of Siena and were just around the corner from our apartment, a little boy ran out of a tiny family run restaurant yelling, "Neve, neve, neve" as he tried to catch snowflakes on his tongue. It was the first snow of the year. It didn't stick but it was magical coming down over this enchanted medieval city.
We've only been here a week and out of that week my mom and I went to Venice and Rome, so I really haven't had much time to get to know the town. I haven't yet found my favorites like a produce market, cheese shop, bread shop, cafe, or general market. Aric, on the other hand, has yet to leave since we've been here so he has established some relationships. Well, at least two. He likes the people at the little pizzaria  down the street and the woman at the produce market just around the corner. I have found that the people here are not as friendly as those in Lucca. Maybe it's because it's bigger and more touristy. Last Wednesday was the lighting of the Christmas tree and all the lights that drape over the narrow streets and steep alleys. It was magical. A marching band paraded through the streets playing Christmas music, which, by the way, was delayed due to a college protest. We couldn't understand the signs but they were a HUGE group (at least 3 city blocks long) and  all looked rather peaceful (a lot of tie-dye and dreads..........not to be stereotypical or anything).
Today we went to a big market at the Piazza Del Campo, one of Italy's largest piazza that was constructed back in the 1100's. Half was arts and crafts and the other half was wine, cheese, meats (prosciutto and salami), produce, honey, and bread. It's set up just as a market would be hundreds of years ago with wood and canvas vender booths and tables covered with old flour sacks.
We had a great time at the farmhouse. We became good friends with both Clizia (who's in charge of the farmhouses and visitors) and Francesco (who's in charge of the olives and all the property). Clizia taught me how to make strudel, home-made pasta, mushroom risotto, and chocolate cake (I'll be needing a seatbelt extension for the plane ride home!). Aric has mastered the worlds best bread and pizza dough........ who wants to come over for dinner when we get home?!?!?!
Francesco taught Aric how to pick olives. It's not quite like you'd think. I thought you'd climb up an old hand made wooden ladder with a fabric lined basket and sing "that's amore" while you preciously picked each olive individually with love. NOPE! Francesco (and many Italians) hire filipino helpers to pick the olives. Well, actually........shake the olives. They use these things that look like rakes with long handles that are powered by a loud generator. They lay a giant net blanket around the base of the tree and run the  "electric rake" over each individual branch until every olive has been shaken/shook (which is it?) off the tree. They dump all the olives into a big bin on the back of the tractor and move to the next tree. Every four days they take the olives to the olive crusher to make the olive oil. Aric was lucky enough to go with Francesco and see this process. I'm hoping to go in the next week or so.
Speaking of olive picking and pickers, I have a funny story for you.......
Francesco hired three guys from the Philippines to pick olives. They stayed in the smallest cottage at the edge of the property. Picking all the olives takes about 3-4 weeks (you can't pick olives if it rains or the olives are wet from fog). One night we were sitting by the fire talking when we saw something go by the front door/windows (the whole front of the farmhouse was windows). We both looked and commented that we saw something. Now, we are the only people on this property (out in the middle of no-where, literally!) except for Francesco, who we knew was gone that night. So, all of you who know me and know me well, know that mind can go to some dark places! Moments later we see a silhouette of a man holding something long and pointy outside our door. Aric opens the door and there are 2 of the men that are helping pick the olives. One of them is holding a long stick that was carved with a point at the end. Yes, a spear!!! I thought for sure we were getting slaughtered that night! Aric didn't think anything of it. It turns out that they were looking for Francesco (who's home was in front of ours). As for the harpoon, they were using it for protection. Wild boar roam the property at night and since they had to walk in the dark across the property (about a mile) they wanted to be protected. Not only that but they said that is how they hunt boar in the Philippines. They had asked Francesco if it were okay to hunt one and they were given the okay. We never did find out if they caught one........ hopefully not. As for me, I didn't sleep well that night.
Georgia and Francesca are doing great and continue to adjust to our new living situations. Aric and the girls hung Christmas lights all around the apartment. Our little Elf on the Shelf (Frosty) is visiting us this month and we are on day 4 of the advent calendar (well, I guess everyone is:)). This year we have decided Georgia advent calendar is about giving and receiving, not just receiving. Somedays she receives little chocolates, stickers, or an ornament. On other days she receives a little note that asks her to do something for someone else (read her sister a book, help make dinner, make a holiday card for someone, etc).
It is wonderful to be in Italy during the holidays. It is not a consumer holiday to the extreme but more about the true celebration and festivities. As I sit here surrounded by strands of Christmas lights, red and green candles, and holiday music, I feel blessed to have this experience with my family.  I have been a little (okay, A LOT!) homesick this month. The month of December is usually filled with our annual Santa party, dinners with girlfriends, 4 separate family celebrations (the pros of both coming from divorced families), Santa's sleigh ride up in Loomis, 10 cousins running around Grams and Pop's with their new pj's, baking with my mom, and of course Christmas day. A day when our house fills up with family and their families. It's a time of year that I have always loved appreciated. You are loved, appreciated and missed!
So much love to you,
--Tracy
xo